My wife and I were there on two seperate field expeditions during November and December 2000 with logistical support from the UNDP/GEF East African Cross Borders Biodiversity Project. Some tour companies are now going to Engare Sero which is the small village at the south-western end of the lake since we also used the campsite there for a few days and there were quite a few visitors. It has been quiet in respect to Somalis - but you never know when they might turn up. There is now a Police Post at Engare Sero - but they don't have a vehicle to do patrols....If you go up the lake on the western side take a couple of Eskaris (Police) for around 15,000 TSH ($20) per day. Stay away from the Loliondo Area and the northern end of the Lake. We were also working Gelai Mountain on the eastern shores of the Lake. Maasai said they saw two Somalis heading for Ngorongoro in November along the track that runs along the shore on the eastern side. Further to the east, near to Namanga, Maasai speared two Somalis in November. I recommend Arumeru Tours & Safaris with Herbert Kinyuyu as driver/guide. Limited tourism to maintain the wilderness experience and not impact the fragile ecology of the lake and surrounding environment with direct benefit to local people is required for Lake Natron. Lake Natron is one of the most fascinating and unique places on the planet. Limited tourism - not mass tourism is the wording here. Conservation is urgently required - Maasai are trashing the environment by overgrazing with far too many cattle and now someone had the "bright idea" to give them camels which run wild on the western side of the lake. Incredibly stupid. If you are climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai ask for Burra Ami Gadiye in Engare Sero.
There's also a gate just before Engare Sero and you have to pay TSH 10,000 per person (maybe per day as well), unless you have research clearance. It's ridiculous becuase they can't ensure security. It's just another way to get money out of wazungus (tourists) and letters complaining that there isn't any security but you have to pay to visit, should be sent to Ngorongoro Council. They need the tourism dollars but unless pressure is put on them, won't do anything about the insecurity.
Go for it. If you are serious about really wanting visit Lake Natron, it is really well worth it.
Andrew Burton, Mexico.
