Sorry if this is rather long. I got carried away because I was busy re living my trip. rather sad really.
This is almost the exact route that I was going to take this summer, but I only went as far as Mali because I have it on good authority (i.e overlanders whom i met ) that it is extremely hard to do this trip - as far as Mauritania you should not run into any major problems, but it is still illegal to cross the border from Mauritania TO Western Sahara, (although it is legal the other way around). To go North to South you need to go accompanied by the military convoy that makes the journey once a week. It's possible I guess to take local advice once you get near the border, but its a long way to have gone to have to turn around. I have not heard of anybody being able to cross recently. There are mines and bandits to contend with along the route. Western Sahara is on the 'off limits' list on the Foriegn Office website.
There is also the problem of getting into Morrocco legally - Western Sahara is at war with Morocco at the moment (as you probably know). For better information, check out the Rough Guide to West Africa or the Lonely Planet - both say more or less the same except that they give various anecdotes about it being physically possible to cross, but being expected to spend 'a few nights in the cells' or something similar.
However, regarding the first leg, i can give you more constructive information. West Africa is a stunning place to visit. My route took me from Accra where I was living for a while, west to the Cote d'ivoire, then to Burkina Faso, and then Mali up as far as timbuktu, and then back through Burkina to Accra through Ghana. If I were you, unless you enjoy watching your back and seeing bulletproof vested revolver weilding private security guards everywhere, I would avoid the Ivory Coast. At any rate, DO NOT take the train from Abidjan to Ouga(dougou), because it is damned uncomfortable, the officials are corrupt beyond belief. Add to this that we made =half= the journey (bouake to Bobo -diolasso), and it took about 36 hours.
The Cote d'Ivoire is an amazing place to see, but Abidjan has a reputation for muggings and violence to which only Lagos compares. We got lucky and came away unscathed, but I've met plenty who didn't (bottlings, knivings... very nasty). Having said that, it has got a certain edge to it, with stunning buildings and friendly people. It feels like a bit of the States in Africa. Equally Yammosukkro is very interesting. But I would say do not sacrifice a visit to Ghana.
Ghana is a different story. Definitley get a hold of the 'Guide to Ghana' book by Phillip Briggs, (pub. Bradt). Even if you are guidebook-phobic, this is the least patronising, most personal and most useful guidebook I've read.
Some highlights of Ghana: you can either go North up the West side or the East Side. If you go up the east you can go on a boat trip through Lake Volta, which many of my friends have done and enjoyed, although to go all the way to its source I believe is rather tedious.
Alternatively, from accra west throuh Cape Coast (colonial capital - nice). Hans Cottage good place but LOTS of insects. Kakum National park easy day trip - walk above rainforest and brick it cos it's a long way off the ground. Then to Takoradi - boring but good base. From there, do not miss out on Busua - best beach in the country and you will have the place to yourselves (stay at Alaska, with three it works out at about two quid a night). Back to takoradi, and North to Kumasi, Ashanti capital. Biggest and best market you will EVER see. Worth a few nights stopover if you can spare the time.
Worth visiting Kintampo falls when going North to Tamale. Boring town but useful to get to Mole National Park, which is touristy (that is, on a ghanaian scale of things). Also Wa is worth it, interesting mosques. You can go to Burkina north there, but I believe the road is seasonal (and if you go in dec. it'll be alright). It is probably best to go via Bolgatanga and Paga. The bus from Bolga to Ouaga takes about three hours (STMB is a good company but don't take crap from the porters. Bargain hard over baggage and you won't get charged too much for it. More a problem in Ouaga).
Burkina is cool, but the hospitality is not quite as =amazing= as in Ghana.
Get your visa in Accra. The embassy closes at one thirty. They will try to charge you $40, but if you pay in CFA (west african francs), they should only charge you 15,000 (£15).
Ouaga I found very boring, but Bobo Diolassou is better. I can give you the address of a very nice guesthouse. You can tour the villages round there, and there is a market for it. You will find that Ghana is chock-full of 'obrunis' (white people) out to save the world or their souls or both, whereas Burkina is much less westernised.
***Most important***: if you are taking traveller's cheques, GET THE PURCHASE RECEIPTs, and get them from from AMEX. French franc cheques useful in francophone, esp. Burkina. (don't know how things work out after euro comes in in Jan). Banks here don't really understand what the purchase reciept is, but insist you get one (it's issued by Amex themselves, blue docket on carbon paper). I very nearly got in big trouble in Ouaga with no money because I didn't have the receipt.
Try to get to the market at Gorom Gorom, just north of Dori in the North East. This is a gem. You can get there on thursdays by public transport because friday's market day (check). Camels, incredible market. Well worth it.
If you want to press on further north from there, you can either go back to Ouaga, or sraight from dori to Ouhigya- but these buses are less frequent. from there you can get to Koro, in Mali, and one of the easiest ways to get to the Dogon Country . The Market day is Saturday in Koro, which means that if you see gorom gorom, it is a struggle. It may be better to use a different crossing into Mali, but the busier towns tend to be over run by pushy guides. Do not on any account miss going to the Dogon Country - I can give you the name of a good and cheap guide. Five days went fast, but I can imagine that much longer might drag.
North further: Mopti. Mopti is hell on earth. There are guides everywhere, who will be claiming to be the guide that you used in the Dogon country, try and persuade you that they are your cousin's best friend etc etc. and it is expensive. We were there trying to get a boat to Timbuktu.
Which was a nightmare - not really worth spending seven nights sleeping on rice sacks with no shelter on a boat that was meant to take two days. And drinking river water too because there was nothing else (take LOTS of puritabs for situations like this, but try and get used to drinking local water in towns. Not Accra though- buy 'Pure water' in bags from girls, as this is purified).
The main problem with the timbuktu is the transport. If you have money and no imagination, you can go in a hired 4x4. best way is by passenger ferry, but only runs when enough water. We were there in August, and there wasn't then, but there may well be by now.
I have friends who took the iron ore train from bamako to dakar, which takes ages but is probably best way to go. Watch your wallets in Dakar - it's a little like Abidjan, but not so extreme, I believe. Senegal and Gambia reportedly fantastic.
As for the women traveller thing (not being patronising) - it's perfectly safe, but you'll have to get used to attitudes in West Africa.
Take wedding rings. A good way to get rid of admirers is to tell them you have a ghanaian boyfriend who is big.
On the other hand, if you want to pull a fit ghanaian - you're laughing.
And that's all I know. I am very jealous. Sorry if you're asleep.
where Africa comes to you..
