African Travel Articles
Oryx
Battle in Namibia
I want to see
something killed! G. says with a glint in his eye, a wide grin splitting
his face when he introduces himself and says what he most wants to see in
Africa on his 56 day trip. There is a titter of laughter and more nods of
agreement than not. It is not hard to understand the desire to witness a kill.
It is one of Natures most dramatic visual spectacles certainly but there
is a reason very few television shows allow the sound to be heard of the
animals being killed. Most animals sound like a screaming child as it is being
brought down and eaten by a predator. Very few people say they want to see a
kill a second time. Be careful what you wish for here in Africa, my new
friend. I say knowingly.
Indeed, something being killed has its
fascination. It is the purest visual form of the Darwinian principles that
insure the survival of species. For the lion, only the most capable, the
strongest, and most aggressive will be able to bring down its prey to feed its
young and survive to breed. For the antelope or zebra, it is only the fastest
and most agile that will elude the predators and live to have offspring. With
intra-specie competition, only the most powerful must prove in battle that he
has the right to live, breed, and reign in his given territory. It is in these
battles that kill or be killed is the ultimate rule of engagement and usually
the most brutal. It is this experience that brings out the primal understanding
that we have about our most essential nature. We as animals, no matter how
civilized we believe ourselves to be, have beneath it all a base instinct to
survive and perpetuate ourselves as we see fit and within our given
worlds.
It is morning in the Namibian desert. The sun has just risen,
bathing the stark vastness of the Namib-Naukluft in a golden orange
brilliance. The passengers are still waking up from their early rise, looking
forward to being back in the arms of civilization in the seaside town of
Swakopmund. The wilds of Africa have not just yet been wild enough for them in
savagerys terms, but certainly so in the lack of civilizations
amenities.
N., our driver, slows as he approaches the animals
entangled in front of us in the sand of the desert road. I can see immediately
this is not a friendly sparring match between two Oryx bulls. The speed,
dexterity, and force with which they are attempting to stake each other with
their spear-like horns bespeaks these two mean business. Lethal business.
This is not something that happens very often, guys, let alone
seen. I say to the passengers. Two antelope fighting to the death
is much rarer than most believe. Most animals solve their dominance issues with
rituals and almost no physical contact. N. switches off the vehicle and
we sit and watch..
The two animals, magnificent creatures in the prime
of their lives, are utterly exhausted. The muscles beneath the animals
skin writhe like subcutaneous serpents. Their deep, powerful breathing is
almost tangible in the truck as they press their bulk and slash their heads
sideways and around trying to impale each other. The harsh clacking of the
horns as they smash into each other and deftly parry one anothers savage
thrusts makes some of the passengers jump. Then, of course, there is the
blood.
The horns of an Oryx can be over a meter long. Straight and
dagger sharp at the ends, they could easily skewer a foe or an enemy attempting
to do it harm. There is an account of a lion, having attempted to make a meal
of an Oryx, finding itself inextricably impaled on the horns. Unable to
extricate itself from this impalement, the two creatures died in this most
intimate and horrible of entanglements.
During this battle, one of the
beautiful creatures has snapped his horn off in the side of his foe. Its black
shaft sticks painfully from a gaping, oozing hole in the ribcage. It is not
quite as stomach-churning as the fact that the horn has obviously penetrated
into its lung. With every powerful breath it expels, blood froths from its
lips. The other Oryx is a mass of slashes and cuts, blood lying over its
beautiful white, black, and grayish coat like an angry Jack Pollack painting.
It is impossible to look away
Many sit with their mouths hung open in
awe and horror. It is more than a car wreck. Much more. It is the fight for
survival that most humans would dread if put in the hooves of such an animal.
It makes one wonder what could possibly be worth this battle of blood and
certain death. I look at G. to see if he has received his wish. The look on his
face betrays his true feelings even as he snaps photos of the living carnage.
He could begin projectile vomiting at any moment.
I try and soften the
horror of the scene with I know its tough to see, guys, but this is how
Oryx determine who will pass on his superior genes. If an animal like this
cannot defeat a fellow Oryx with strength and prowess, how will he do against a
lion or group of hyenas? By fighting like this, they make sure the strongest
indeed survive. No one is listening. S. appears at my shoulder, tears in
her eyes, her hands thrown up in front of her mouth. I know she wants to close
her eyes and never see this again. I know, like everyone riveted to these
beautiful animals savaging each other, they will never not see this image when
they think of their trip through Africa.
N., perhaps stirred by an
innate want to help a living creature suffering, starts the engine and guns it
in neutral. The Oryx do nothing to show they have heard it. Indeed, they move
even closer to the truck in pushing and shoving each other. Desperately N.
honks the horn but to no avail. He finds a gear and jumps the truck toward the
antelope gladiators. Some passengers cheer, including G.
We are no more
than five meters from the dying, desperate animals when N. stops, but they are
oblivious. They, and their fight for dominance, are each others entire
universe. S. whimpers next to me, Please go! Just go
. It is
enough. I wave for N. to get us out of here. He backs the truck from the
fixated bulls. He guns the engine and we tear away from the merciless battlers.
All bodies and eyes shift to the back of the truck as the Oryx fade in the
distance.
As the carnage disappears behind us, it is like a funeral in
the truck. A few sniffles are heard. Some check their photos as others stare
out the window. I look at G. one last time before sitting down. He is blinking
tears from his eyes as he fidgets with his camera. I know no photo will ever
make him feel better about getting his wish. Yet, these photos and its
memories, will help him recognize that he was privileged enough to see one the
grim, fascinating wonders, not only in Africas wilds, but also in all
Nature.
Written by Matt Dry - trip leader
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