These two tiny slivers of land on the West African coast are little visited, but are home to some of Africa’s greatest historical attractions and most interesting cultures. On this trip we immerse ourselves in this land of voodoo, hoping to witness voodoo ceremonies in small villages where few western travellers have ever trod and gain a greater understanding of this much maligned religion. We step back in time as we wander through the crumbling colonial architecture of Ouidah and Porto Novo, where we may spot voodoo spirits walking the streets. We visit the remnants of one of the region’s most powerful and feared kingdoms at Abomey, and seek out the Taneka people tucked away in their hilltop villages. Little known is that Benin is a treasurehouse of wildlife, and we spend two nights in Pendjari National Park – a big game safari without the tourists found in other countries – before camping out in the Somba region and exploring their unique fortress houses. This short trip showcases the very best of Africa’s neverending diversity and should be on every serious traveller’s wishlist.
Itinerary
Day 1 – Lome Arrive in Lome, capital of Togo, and transfer to hotel. Overnight Hotel Ibis or similar.
Day 2 – Lome Take a tour of the city, including its lively and colourful market, before heading to the fetish market, where all manner of animal parts are on sale for spells and potions – a truly West African sight! In the afternoon we take a canoe through swamps and marshes to a remote village, where we hope to experience a voodoo ceremony. Overnight Hotel Ibis or similar. (B)
Day 3 – Porto Novo We cross the border into Benin and head to the sleepy capital, Porto Novo, full of delightfully ramshackle colonial architecture and a stronghold of voodoo. We have time to explore the city and perhaps visit a voodoo temple. Overnight Hotel Beaurivage or similar. (BL)
Day 4 – Ganvie The stilt village of Ganvie, in the centre of Lake Nokwe is our goal today. We take a boat onto the lake and explore the village, hopefully seeing a local market where all the trade is conducted on small boats. On our return to land we visit the town of Abomey-Calavi where we hope to have an audience with the king of the region. Later we head to Grand Popo and our hotel situated virtually on the beach. Overnight Auberge de Grand Popo or similar. (B)
Day 5 – Ouidah Ouidah gained notoriety as a slaving port and remnants of its European population can be found in its buildings, not dissimilar to those in Porto Novo. We visit the Python Temple, the history museum situated within an old Portuguese Fort, and the sombre Gate of No Return, a symbolic monument erected to commemorate the innumerable Africans who left these shores in the hands of the slave trade. Return to Grand Popo for the evening. Overnight Auberge de Grand Popo or similar. (B)
Day 6 – Abomey Abomey was the centre of the notorious kingdom of Dahomey, a fiercesome people who struck terror into the hearts of the surrounding tribes. We visit the Royal Palace, its walls reputed to be forged from the blood and bones of captives, to gain an insight into this once great African power. It may also be possible to witness a Guelede ceremony in a nearby village. Overnight Hotel Dako or similar. (B)
Day 7 – Djougou We leave the lush coastal belt of Benin behind and head north into a different landscape, where Islam replaces Voodoo as the dominant religion. We stop en route at the Dankoli fetish, the most powerful fetish in Benin, where we may see sacrifices being performed to ask for the favour of the gods. There will be time to explore Djougou, which has a very different feel to the Benin of the south. Overnight Hotel La Tonga or similar. (B)
Day 8 – Taneka Villages – Pendjari National Park Heading off on a dirt track into the bush, we visit the fascinating Taneka villages. The Taneka people remained ‘undiscovered’ by the western world until relatively recently and today still live a traditional lifestyle, some still wearing only animal skins. Accompanied by a local guide we explore their fascinating culture, meeting the local healer and blacksmith, who forges tools using centuries old methods. Later we drive to Pendjari National Park. Overnight Campement de la Pendjari. (B)
Day 9 – Pendjari National Park We take morning and afternoon game drives, relaxing during the heat of the day when wildlife is less likely to be seen. Pendjari harbours good numbers of elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, hippos and antelopes and also has excellent birdlife to be observed. The joy of Pendjari is that you will not find here the masses of tourists that frequent the national parks of East Africa – at times you will feel as if you have the whole area to yourself, making a safari here an immensely special experience. Overnight Campement de la Pendjari. (BL)
Day 10 – Pendjari – Naititingou We take a final game drive through the park, hoping to spot more of its amazing wildlife, before heading to the town of Naititingou. Overnight Hotel Tata Somba or similar. (BL)
Day 11 – Somba Villages The villages of the Somba people, straddling the border between Togo and Benin, are one of the undoubted highlights of the region. Each house is built out of earth as a fortress, able to be defended against the slaving raids of old and capable of shielding an entire family and their livestock from invaders. We spend today visiting several of these magical and enchanting structures, and meeting the Somba people, some of whom still wear headgear made from the horns of gazelles and sport bones through their lips. We cross the border into Togo. Tonight we camp in the bush – a very special, and intrinsically African, experience. (BLD)
Day 12 – Kara – Sokode Drive further west, to the region inhabited by the Bassar. They live in large clay houses with conical roofs and keep the secret of the very old procedure of iron production: a mixing of geology and alchemy. We meet with traditional chiefs of the area, who tell us about their role today. This evening we witness a fire dance. Overnight Hotel Central or similar. (B)
Day 13 – Kloto Drive to the mountains and the village of Kloto, surrounded by rainforest. This afternoon we take an easy hike through the forest accompanied by a local naturalist in search of the many species of butterflies that live here. Overnight Campement de Kloto or similar. (B)
Day 14 – Lome Return to Togo and the capital, for our final night. Overnight Hotel Ibis or similar. (B)
Price Includes All accommodation based on twin/double share All transport (4WD vehicles throughout) and transfers Meals as listed above Park entrance fees An English speaking guide
Price does not include International flights Travel insurance Drinks Visas Single Supplement
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Our trip was wonderful- The staff in Angola met all of our expectations and went above and beyond- a special thanks to Ray who met us at airport, got us started on our trip, entertained us at the Flamigo Lodge and met us again on our return to Lumabgo and took us to airport for our departure to Namibia
