Purists will tell you
that the only way to travel is independently. Certainly, whether you are a
well-paid professional on a couple of weeks’ leave or a backpacker
travelling for months on a few dollars a day, there are few more exhilarating
feelings than heading off into the unknown, with no fixed agenda or firm dates
to adhere to, and the open road stretching far ahead.
But what exactly
do we mean by independent travel? To many people, it is seen to be synonymous
with budget travel, a pursuit for the young, impecunious and vaguely
disreputable. This, I think, is a misconception. Independent travel, for want
of a better definition, is simply the opposite of organised travel —
whether that be a luxury safari or an inexpensive overland truck trip.
Independent travel inevitably involves exposing oneself to the country one
travels through, and with increased exposure comes increased vulnerability.
Preparation and forethought are integral to the success of any independent trip
in Africa — but where do you begin?
Let me address some of the
questions most frequently raised by first-time independent travellers to
Africa...
Is it safe to travel independently in Africa?
Probably not, if what you
have in mind is hitchhiking across Angola, but any country that can be
considered safe for package tourism should also be fine for independent travel.
It is difficult to see why travelling on your own would increase the risk of
catching a serious disease, or of being robbed or attacked (the worst crime
spots in many cities are, after all, the streets immediately outside upmarket
hotels). The one area in which independent travellers probably do take on an
additional risk is by using public transport, which is more prone to accidents
than private transport. However, even this risk can be minimised by being
selective about the transport you use.
And as a single woman?
Solo travellers of either gender are more exposed
and seen to be more approachable than people travelling together. One
consequence of this is that you will find it more difficult to deflect the
attention of unwanted hangers-on. The positive flip side is that it forces you
to be more open with local people and other travellers. And even if you start
off travelling alone, there are many places in Africa where travellers
congregate, which makes it easy to pair up casually with a like-minded soul. In
my opinion, this is far preferable to committing yourself to months of travel
in the company of a friend merely for the sake of not being alone.
Single women travellers everywhere face additional risks and hassles, but
sub-Saharan Africa is generally regarded to be safer in this respect than most
places. Broadly, the worst you need fear from African men is the occasional
overt proposal, which can easily be deflected with a straightforward
“no”. Nevertheless, it does make sense to dress modestly, to handle
yourself in a manner that could not be perceived to give out the wrong signals,
and to avoid sleeping in cheap local guesthouses (many of which double as
brothels).
Otherwise, provided you take the same common-sense
precautions you might at home (eg. avoid unlit streets at night and deserted
beaches), there is little to fear. Persistent hassle is most likely to come
from male travellers and, in southern Africa, from resident white males after a
few drinks — nothing that you wouldn’t encounter at home.
Isn’t Africa
very unhealthy?
The most serious health concern in most areas is
malaria, a risk which can be minimised by taking prophylactic drugs and
covering up between dusk and dawn. People travelling independently for a while
ought to think about carrying a cure for malaria in case they do contract it in
an out-of-the-way place. Visit a reputable travel clinic for reliable current
information about malaria prevention and cures, and which other inoculations
are required. A lesser but important area of concern is sanitation-related
diseases, which are most often caught from drinking unbottled water or eating
raw, unpeeled fruits and vegetables. Bilharzia can be contracted from
slow-moving waterways so it’s best to avoid swimming in most rivers and
certain areas of some inland lakes. Local food is often of limited
nutritional value, and taking multi-vitamins will help you from becoming run
down. HIV is widespread throughout the continent.
What do I need to
take?
Assuming that you’ll be making use of public transport,
carry your gear in a sturdy backpack. This is bound to receive some rough
treatment, so bring a separate day pack for cameras and other breakables. Pack
as little as possible: essentials include a medical kit, toiletries, a
penknife, torch, spare padlock and alarm clock. Many travellers carry a camera,
field guides, binoculars, a few novels, a short-wave radio, and a pack of
cards. Keep a toilet roll handy at all times. Women travellers should be aware
that tampons are generally available only in larger towns, so it’s
sensible always to carry enough to see you through one menstrual cycle.
Keep clothing to a minimum. One pair of trousers, long skirt or sarong,
one pair of shorts, a few T-shirts or shirts, and a good supply of underwear
and socks is about right. Depending on where you travel, you might want to
carry some warmer clothing — bearing in mind that you can normally buy
cheap second-hand clothes in markets as local climatic conditions dictate.
What about camping
equipment?
A tent, sleeping bag, roll mat and stove might add 5kg
to your luggage, not to mention doubling the size, which is a heavy price to
pay unless you make extensive use of your camping gear. This is easier in some
countries than in others: in Kenya and most of southern Africa, there are
numerous opportunities to save money by camping, while in Ethiopia, Tanzania or
West Africa, the opportunities are fewer. Whatever you decide, organised
camping safaris anywhere in East or southern Africa will provide camping gear
for their clients.
How should I carry my money?
The hard
currency of preference is the US dollar (though Francophone countries are more
closely linked to the French franc). It doesn’t matter what currency
traveller’s cheques you carry, so long as it’s not too obscure, but
cash should be in US dollars. A credit card is worth carrying as a back-up more
than a primary source of funds, since it will only be recognised in cities and
at upmarket hotels. Carry all your money and important documents in a
money-belt which can be hidden under your clothes; a large external money-belt
serves to advertise your wealth more than protect it.
What other preparations should
I make?
Start by buying a current travel guide to the country or region
you will visit, one which focuses on practical information rather than glossy
photographs (Rough Guide, Bradt and Lonely Planet can all be recommended for
independent travellers). Check for yourself whether you need a visa
(requirements are prone to change with little warning) and whether this can be
bought on arrival (more straightforward than buying it through an embassy).
It’s crucial that you have a current passport and that this
doesn’t expire until at least six months after you intend to leave Africa.
For security, it’s a good idea to compile a sheet with details of your
passport, traveller’s cheques, travel insurance policy and other important
information; scatter a few copies in your luggage and leave one with friends or
family. If you email this information to yourself immediately before you leave,
you’ll be able to access it at any internet café.
Black markets, corrupt
officials, nightmare border crossings... do I need this in my life?
It’s not that bad!
Black markets are largely a thing of the past, as most countries in the region
have brought their official exchange rates in line with street rates over the
last decade. About the only scenario in which you might genuinely be forced to
change money on the street is when you arrive in a country outside banking
hours, or at a border where there is no bank. In this sort of situation, I
generally change only as much money as I’m likely to need before I can
reach a bank. I have that amount ready in a pocket, and I don’t care
whether I get a good exchange rate — the cleaner and quicker you keep the
transaction, the less likely you are to be surrounded by a gaggle of
pickpockets or con artists.
Aside from the local currency issue, most
border crossings are pretty straightforward, certainly a far cry from the days
when paranoia about South African spies was rife. Provided that your papers are
in order, the worst you can expect is a long boring wait to be processed.
Protracted baggage searches and the like can cause delays, especially if
you arrive at the same time as a few buses, but with a few exceptions —
the Beitbridge border between South Africa and Zimbabwe being a notorious
example — crossing between countries is plain sailing.
As for all
the hoo-ha about corruption in Africa, it’s not something that impacts
greatly on independent travellers. I’ve yet to be asked for a bribe in
five years of African travel.
Should I carry sweets to give local children?
No! Playing Santa Claus may make
you feel good, but it does nothing to help the recipients, except reinforce a
culture of dependency. The whole question of “giving” is a vexed one,
but for what it’s worth I think the only people to whom travellers should
give anything are genuine beggars. Kids who ask for money are mostly just
chancing it, while those who demand pens are simply more sophisticated in their
understanding of how to tweak Western sensibilities. Far more constructive than
indiscriminately handing out trinkets to individuals would be to make a
donation to a local school, or to give generously to a community project.
Every guide book
dwells on crime in Africa. How bad is it?
This is always a difficult question to answer.
Simplistically, most African societies are far more honest than ours, and crime
isn’t a major concern in most places you will visit. Nevertheless, a
criminal element does exist, particularly in the cities, and tourists often
form their main prey.
Large cities are the main hot spots for con
artists and criminals. You can assume that anybody who approaches you in the
street in the city, whether they claim to work at your hotel or that they met
you yesterday, will be after something. People like this are generally adept at
manipulating the sensibilities of tourists, and they become more difficult to
shake off the longer you talk to them. The solution — and one that often
clashes with our notion of politeness — is to ignore them in the first
place.
Some cities are more dangerous than others, with Nairobi and
Johannesburg probably topping the list when it comes to mugging and
pickpocketing. As a rule, however, you should never walk around cities with
more money than you need, and avoid behaving in a manner that reveals you to be
a tourist. This includes carrying a day pack or a camera, wearing an external
money belt, and dressing too casually (most expats wear long trousers and a
button-up shirt).
Elsewhere, bus stations often harbour a contingent
of petty thieves and con artists, who will know that anybody carrying a
backpack must have their valuables somewhere on their person. When I arrive in
a town, I always take a taxi to our hotel, or walk out of the bus station
quickly and determinedly until I am clear of the crowds. If I need directions,
I prefer to approach somebody myself than to be directed by somebody who
approached me and who may well have an ulterior motive.
The key to
dealing with all this is not indiscriminate paranoia but selective caution
— assuming that you are able to identify the situations in which
travellers are particularly vulnerable, and to act accordingly, you can adopt a
pretty relaxed, trusting attitude the rest of the time.
Philip
Briggs has travelled extensively around Africa during the last five years. He
is the author of nine African guide books.
