That
the national anthem of Côte d’Ivoire describes the country as a land
of hope is indicative of the positive attitude of its people. Always friendly,
always welcoming, the good nature of the Ivorians will be encountered
throughout the nation.
Whether travelling for business or pleasure,
Côte D’Ivoire offers a multitude of choices. From bustling city life
to sun-drenched beaches, from nature trips to cultural performances — the
Ivory Coast has it all. And all of it, in one form or another, is accessible as
a day-trip from Abidjan, the country’s largest city.
Abidjan: Paris of West Africa
Often called the Paris
of West Africa, Abidjan is a major hub of commerce. Built on the shore of a
calm lagoon, the modern skyline of The Plateau — the business district
— lies across the Charles de Gaulle Bridge. With its wide tree-lined
boulevards, outdoor cafes, chic boutiques and gleaming skyscrapers, The Plateau
is a favourite with business travellers.
Novotel, Sofitel and the
Hotel Tiama are popular places to stay. Across an arm of the lagoon in the
Cocody district is the opulent Hotel Ivoire Intercontinental which features
West Africa’s only indoor ice-skating rink. And further away in the
Riviera district is the Golf Hotel, with its highly acclaimed 18 hole golf
course.
By day, The Plateau is a wonderful place to take a stroll,
visiting the many shops and relaxing in one of the parks or at a sidewalk. At
night, the focus of activity shifts to Treichville, where you will find lively
nightclubs and the highly popular Maquis restaurants offering cheap food that
encompasses everything from Lebanese specialities to authentic West African
dishes.
In the daytime, the Treichville Market is a haven for bargain
hunters. In 1997 it burned to the ground, but many merchants have set up
sidewalk stalls during construction of the New Market.
If you have a
few hours to spare, the National Museum features a large collection of masks,
statues, ivory, pottery and bronze. And the bold architecture of St.
Paul’s Cathedral is worth a visit, the bell tower providing a good view of
the Plateau.
Yamoussoukro: A President’s Legacy
The road to Yamoussoukro — the capital — is a modern
four-lane motorway that begins just north of Abidjan’s Adjane district. Be
sure to stop at the Parc de Banco where you will see the famed Fanico
laundrymen at work in the river. Over a hundred migrant workers labour there
each morning. By noon, every square metre of grass flanking the road is covered
with clothing and linen spread out to dry. Despite a high degree of illiteracy,
there is seldom confusion with pick-ups and deliveries.
Entering
Yamoussoukro, you will immediately be impressed by the Notre Dame de la Paix
basilica, its enormous dome towering above the horizon. Built at a cost of over
US$400 million, it dominates the skyline and is the largest cathedral in Africa
and the tallest church in the Christian world. Skilled artisans in France
fashioned its 36 immense stained-glass windows.
Yamoussoukro was home
to the late president and is now a monument to his excesses. From a humble town
of 30,000 the population has increased ten-fold. New architecture, modern
street lamps and deserted eight-lane boulevards reflect a failed vision. Yet
the city is not without its charm. It boasts two of the finest universities in
West Africa and superior convention facilities that make it attractive for
international conferences. The Hotel President is one of Côte
D’Ivoire’s finest and features a top floor restaurant with quality
European cuisine. A nearby golf course rivals the one in Abidjan.
The
former Presidential Palace is used by relatives and is off limits to visitors.
But you can approach the estate on a small bridge across an artificial lake
that is teeming with dozens of crocodiles. These are fed in late afternoon,
providing a guaranteed close-up view of this feared reptile.
If
animals are your passion, only an hour’s drive from town is the
d’Abokouamekro Game Reserve. The park is home to hippos, birds, including
waterfowl and other indigenous wildlife. The featured attraction, however, is
the herbivore population. An ingenious programme was undertaken to breed
animals that have long disappeared. Who would guess that you can see White
rhinos and giraffes in West Africa? Early results suggest the project is a
resounding success. A small but dedicated platoon of wildlife officers ensure
poaching does not become a problem.
The Elephant: A National
Symbol
Once home to thousands of elephants, the Ivory Coast
took its name from the centuries-old trade in elephant tusks. But the ban on
ivory trade came too late to save the herds of West Africa. Today only a few
hundred elephants survive in the north-east corner of the country in Comoe
National Park, the country’s largest game reserve. Here, they freely
wander the forests, grasslands and savannah of the southern Sahel.
Comoe is also home to monkeys, baboons, buffalo, many antelope species and the
rare leopard. Surveys have recorded over 400 species of birds. The southern
entrances to the park are a good day’s drive from Yamoussoukro. Visitors
can stay at the comfortable Comoe Segetel in Ganse, near the Comoe River, or
the Comoe Safari Lodge in Kafolo, near the northern entrance on the border with
Burkina-Faso. The park is open from December to May, dawn to dusk.
Korhogo and the Senoufo People
Korhogo is the usual
destination for visitors heading north. A worthwhile stopover on route is the
village of Kong, where you will find the Lobi people who share a history with
northern Ghana, Mali and Burkina Faso. Kong’s major landmark is a mosque
dating from the 17th century and built from mud in traditional Sudanese style.
It is one of the finer examples of such buildings and one of only a few this
far south.
The town of Katiola features a traditional pottery centre
and the indigenous diamond mines at Tortiya. But beware — Tortiya lies at
the end of a bone-jostling 50 kilometre dirt road. All mining is by hand and
first-time visitors eagerly search for that special sparkle in the sun. The
itinerant miners usually have a few stones for those with cash to spare.
In a world of tightly regulated bureaucracies it’s refreshing to see
a government that has adopted a laissez-faire attitude towards the people who
toil under a hot sun hoping to find “The Big One”. It’s also
comforting to see a landscape that, although pock-marked with dozens of holes,
has not been raped by giant machinery.
On the road to Korhogo it is
not unusual to encounter a band of Dozo’s, the traditional hunters of the
north. They belong to a secret society to which only the sons of Dozo’s
may join. Africans believe that the many amulets worn on a Dozo shirt possess
magical properties which protect the hunters and give them the power of keen
sight and amplified hearing. It is said that a Dozo cannot be killed by a
bullet or knife since his charms prevent metal from entering his body.
Dozo’s are held in high regard and are frequently hired to guard abandoned
vehicles, to direct traffic or to patrol sensitive religious sites. Korhogo
is a pleasant community and features a small museum, a craft centre and a
lively market. The area is home to the Senoufo people who are traditional
farmers and hunters. Their craft skills are legendary as are the special dances
they willingly perform for visitors. A village market in Waranienie displays
all manner of fabrics and you can watch the weavers at work on their looms.
Nearby is Fakaha, another village known for its Korhogo mud cloth. The cloth
has a rough texture and sports intricately painted designs featuring animals,
birds, insects and abstract patterns. As you visit these places, be on the
lookout for masks. Senoufo masks, some of which are a metre or more in length,
are renowned for their intricately carved animal heads. Masks are thought to be
imbued with magical powers, with the wearers becoming the spirits they
represent.
Westward and the Realm of the Yacouba
The west offers spectacular scenery, with mountains and rivers
and an abundance of rain forest. In the city of Man and its environs you will
find the rich culture of the Yacouba people — also known as the Dan.
The drive from Yamoussoukro to Man takes about six hours on a good paved
road. Just south of Daloa lies the village of Gbetitapea, where hundreds of
monkeys invade the village for their daily handout. The monkeys have become the
totem of the village. For the most part these are the small Mona and Diana
monkeys, two species which are rapidly becoming scarce throughout West Africa.
The fees charged by the villagers are minimal and the experience is guaranteed
to be worthwhile.
Man is a rather ordinary town nestled in a
picturesque valley. Its principal landmark is la Dent de Man (the Tooth of
Man). At nearly 1,200 metres it is one of Côte D’Ivoire’s
highest peaks and offers a complementary background for a view of the city
mosque. Not to be missed is the central market, where you will find a wide
variety of fabrics and an endless collection of Dan masks, from those with
simple motifs to ornate antiques.
Masks form an integral part of
Yacouba society. They exist not only as works of art or as disguise. They are
primarily for ritual purposes, each infused with divine properties and symbolic
of a community’s collective memory. The annual Festival of Masks occurs in
November and this is the best time to see all the varieties of masks and dances
from the area.
Not to be missed is the Cascade, a beautiful waterfall
in the middle of a bamboo forest on the outskirts of Man. It is also an
excellent place to find iridescent dragonflies and a wide variety of
butterflies. However, the trail to the falls is a bit precarious.
The
gorge also has a swinging vine bridge called a pont de lianes. This one is
reinforced for the benefit of tourists, but if time allows you can see better
examples in areas near Danane on the Liberian border, a two hour drive to the
west. The lianes in that region cross the Cavally River. These are constructed
entirely of natural materials and are in constant use by local villagers.
For those interested in the Islamic culture of Côte D’Ivoire,
Odienne lies another 150 kilometres north, the largest city in the north-west.
On Fridays the large mosque at Odienne is heavily populated with worshippers.
The town also features an enclave of pottery artisans whose bowls and vessels
are superior to those found in Katiola. The lively markets in both Odienne and
Touba are among the most colourful in West Africa.
Treasures
of the Coast
If the sun is your heart’s desire, then
Côte D’Ivoire is the place to be. An array of sandy beaches lines
the nation’s coast. Due south from Man is the peaceful Bay of Sirens which
hosts a resort hotel of the same name. Its isolation is perfect for those who
wish to be far from the madding crowd. Close by is the seaside town of
Grand Bereby, home to itinerant fishermen from Ghana. Grand Bereby is a busy
place where traditional dugout fishing canoes are fashioned with hand tools and
the daily catch is sorted for market.
At San Pedro, another 50
kilometres to the east, you will find many locals at the grand public beach,
especially on weekends. There are a number of restaurants in the town with
everything from pizza to seafood delicacies.
At Grand Lahou there are
both public and private beaches. The French-owned Bandama Hotel is located on
an island between the lagoon and the sea. It’s principal theme is space
— vast quantities of it. Every bungalow is situated in its own garden, and
the main hall is a giant open-air veranda covered in thatch. By day the beach
offers seclusion and serenity with fabulous views of the sunset.
There
are several interesting activities in the area. For about US$20 you can rent a
boat to take you to the Isle of the Chimpanzees. Here, in an effort to protect
them, a small band of apes was moved to this isolated island in a lagoon about
eight kilometres from Grand Lahou.
A visit to Tiegba rewards you with
a glimpse of a unique village, built on stilt pilings over the waters of the
lagoon. For a small fee, boys from the village will happily transport you there
by pirogue. On the road to and from Tiegba you pass through mile after mile of
palm and rubber tree plantations. The carefully aligned trees create hypnotic
patterns in the sunlight. This is the legacy of Houphouet-Boigny whose vision
of mechanised agriculture on a grand scale has made Côte d’Ivoire
the envy of many African countries.
Only 20 minutes from Abidjan,
Grand Bassam hosts the annual Fete d’Abissa in November. This marks sacred
holidays among the Agni, a subgroup of the Akan people. The week-long event is
characterized more by hilarity than piety as residents don outlandish costumes
and compete to create ridiculous faces splattered with paint and weird designs.
Visitors are often the targets of harmless jokes and readily join in the spirit
of things.
In Grand Bassam there is an artists’ centre where you
will find superior quality masks. Only the Treichville market and the shops in
Man offer a larger variety. Behind the centre you can see artisans casting
bronze using the lost wax process.
Grand Bassam was the original
capital of the colonial French. The town boasts many fine examples of colonial
architecture, including French, Portuguese and Dutch influences. There is now a
concerted effort to restore many of these structures in the hope of
revitalising Grand Bassam’s former glory. Restaurants and hotels can be
found in profusion.You might consider a stay at the Club Mediterranee in nearby
Assini.
Akan: A Shared Ancestry
The
subgroups of the Akan people (primarily the Baoule and the Agni) account for a
third of Côte d’Ivoire’s population and are concentrated mainly
in the central and eastern regions. But the Akan are found everywhere. There is
no doubt that they migrated to Côte d’Ivoire from Ghana, many from
the Ashanti region, during times of domestic upheavals. They brought with them
all the traditions and trappings of their famous Ghanaian ancestors. Paramount
chiefs are highly respected and carry all the authority of Ashanti royalty,
including a retinue of warriors, linguists, scribes, poets and priests.
So numerous are the tribal groupings that festivals and ceremonies can
happen anywhere and anytime. Like their Ghanaian cousins, the Akan wear
traditional kente cloth and adorn themselves with ancestral gold during
important processions and occasions of state.
Unfortunately, the town
of Abengourou doesn’t have a lot to offer. But many of the surrounding
villages are fascinating — especially those that carry on the traditions
of fetish priests. Fetishism involves a mix of sorcery and the invocation of
spirits to perform favours. Often these spirits dwell in sacred places such as
a tree, a river, a rock or a termite mound. They can also reside in dolls or
statues.
The Akan village of Tangoulan is located about 50 kilometres
east of Abengourou. Tangoulan priestesses are frequently called upon to assist
with personal problems. One such ceremony involves summoning spirits to help a
barren woman conceive. Another might ask for protection against some force
— such as a guarantee a home is not struck by lightning. Occasionally a
fetish ceremony involves sinister requests — cursing an enemy or stealing
a husband — but for the most part spirits are invoked for positive
reasons.
A new Tourism Awareness
The people
of Côte d’Ivoire are known for their hospitality and even if there
are no special ceremonies coinciding with your visit they will be more than
willing to accommodate you. Village elders acknowledge the benefit of tourist
dollars and in the last decade or so they have also come to realise that people
are willing to pay to see cultural performances.
These earnings remain in the villages and are often applied
towards community needs — a new solar power source or supplies for the
local school, for example. Whether it’s an Akan ceremony or a dance
performed by Yacouba or Senoufo, the enterprising Ivoirians can usually arrange
something at short notice.
While French is the official language, many Ivoirians do speak English. And
trained guides are available to ensure that non-francophones also enjoy their
stay. Wherever you go in Côte d’Ivoire, you will always be made to
feel welcome.
The Ritual of the Dance
The highlight of any visit to Senoufo country is the opportunity to see the
famed Bolohi panther dance (pictured above), where athletic young men mimic the
movements of the leopard to the accompaniment of an orchestra of stringed
balafons and drums. The dance is usually performed in one of the surrounding
rural villages.
Likewise, there are many forms of traditional dances featuring the famed masks
and outlandish costumes of the Yacouba people. Several villages create
performances just for visitors.
What is really pleasing is the aura of dignity in which these dances are
performed. The people go all out to provide an entertaining spectacle, whether
the audience is a large group or only a few individuals. The beautiful
architecture of Yacouba villages adds another dimension to the show. Villagers
are also quite willing to invite guests into their homes and to allow them to
observe various village activities.
The village of Blolle near Man is known for its performance of the Masque du
Ba. The main event is preceded by a retinue of young girls, known as the
Maidens of the Corn, who enthusiastically enact a carefully rehearsed routine
to the beat of village drums. The end of their performance marks the entrance
of the masked dancer who is carried on poles above the heads of athletic young
men. He dismounts and moves about the audience making threatening gestures and
vigorously shaking his rattan skirt. Children squeal in delight and feigned
terror.
Closer to Biankouma are the
villages of Zala and Silakoro, both of which are famous for their stilt
dancers. The women lead a procession, beating small drums and shaking rattles
prior to a display of phenomenal acrobatics by several young men. But the
highlight is the incredible agility of the stilt dancers. Despite the
encumbrance of a heavy mask and an awkward costume, they whirl about with the
grace of Olympic figure skaters. Such is their dexterity that they are able to
bend their three metre posture to the ground to retrieve tips offered by
visitors.
The villagers may also
perform the dance of the Gore Mask, a fearsome apparition who utters gutteral
sounds in a secret language understood only by his attendants.
No trip to Man is complete without experiencing the Dance of the Jugglers,
where magic and acrobatic displays are the primary theme. Pre-pubescent girls
are taught contortion techniques at an early age. It is forbidden for outsiders
to speak to them. They wear white paint on their faces in elaborate geometric
lines with cowry shell head-dresses. Bending and twisting into impossible
shapes, they rival any professional circus performer.
The men conduct themselves in the tradition of stage magicians, feigning a
variety of self-mutilation tricks. The finale consists of the men tossing the
young girls high in the air. As the girls fall the men draw daggers from their
waistbands and catch them in mid-air on the edge or point of the blades.
It’s a daring display of courage and careful timing that holds the
audience spellbound.
COTE D’IVOIRE FACTFILE
Language: The official language is French, although
many ethnic languages are spoken.
Health: An international certificate for yellow fever vaccinations is required
for entry, except for children under one year old. There is a malaria risk all
year round throughout the country.
Currency: The CFA Franc is linked to the French Franc at a rate of 1 FF = 100
CFA.
Climate: There are two rainy
seasons: the main one from May to July and a shorter one in October and
November. Average temperature ranges between 21oC and 30oC.
Roads: There are about 70,000 kilometres of roads throughout the country, of
which about 6,000 are tarred.
Safety First
There is no need to worry about safety in
West Africa — just follow the same common sense principles you apply at
home. By Bob Burch.
We hear of tourists attacked in Egypt,
car-jackings in South Africa, pickpockets in Nairobi, fraud in Lagos. It’s
enough to deter many travellers from venturing forth to Africa.
Sadly,
our perceptions are often clouded by the media’s enthusiasm in reporting
such events. Millions of visitors to Africa never experience any of these
problems, but the isolated incidents — rare as they are — make the
headlines.
In the real world, Africans are every bit as honest as your
next door neighbour. However, certain precautions should be taken. Abidjan has
been classified as a dangerous city, but in fact it is no more dangerous than
London or New York or Rome.
Common sense can go a long way towards
making your visit hassle free. Everybody loves to take their wallet along when
they go somewhere, but face it: do you really need all those credit cards with
you? Leave the wallet at home — you won’t need your phone card,
petrol cards and all those others. Take one credit card such as Visa or
American Express. The only place you can use a credit card is in major hotels
or at a bank for a money advance.
Automatic Teller Machines are a
relatively new item in West Africa. There are very few and the queues are a
nuisance. You won’t need your driver’s licence, hospital card,
library card, and all the memberships you own either. Granted, a thief
wouldn’t be able to use these things, but think of the inconvenience you
will go through trying to replace them. Take cash, traveller’s cheques and
one credit card. The only identification you will need is your passport. Be
sure to copy the numbers of traveller’s cheques and your credit card
number into a notebook. Photocopy the first few pages of your passport. If you
do lose these documents, these precautions will make it easier to replace them
and to cancel cards and cheques.
Some people like to wear a money
belt. This is fine for being sure you have everything with you and in a secure
place, but it is impractical when you actually try to get at your money, not to
mention the fact that in doing so, you will advertise to everyone that you are
wearing one. Each day you venture forth, try to estimate how much cash you will
need and limit what you carry to that amount. If you run short, you can
probably borrow some from another traveller in your group and repay him back at
the hotel.
Purses, handbags and camera straps are temptations. It is
easy to cut them and a thief is soon gone with bag and all. Although this type
of crime is rare, it does happen now and then. Bags that are worn about the
waist are a far better option. They come in all sizes and hold a lot of stuff.
Cameras should always be worn with the strap around your neck — never
casually hung over a shoulder. Today’s small “Point & Shoot”
cameras attract far less attention and produce great pictures. They are also
lighter and easier to carry than bulky 35mm models. Never wear expensive
jewellery (or even jewellery that looks expensive). Africans often perceive
Westerners as ultra-rich.
People often wonder about hotel security,
but all in all West African hotel staff are very honest. A job in a major
tourist hotel is a plum. No employee would jeopardise that security by
stealing. This even holds true for the smaller hotels. But if you do have
valuables you are worried about, leave them with the desk for safekeeping.
Health is also a concern. Be sure to consult with your physician about
what preventions are necessary for malaria and other relevant diseases. Always
bring sufficient medicines if you are taking prescribed drugs. You are unlikely
to find them in an African pharmacy. Bottled water is an absolute rule for West
Africa. Use it even when you brush your teeth — and never wash your
contact lenses in local water.
Sometimes we fear the worst when we
hear of an isolated Ebola case somewhere in deepest Africa. An Ebola incident
in the Congo is certainly no reason to cancel a trip to West Africa. It would
make about as much sense as cancelling your trip to Spain because there is a
meningitis outbreak in Warsaw. Wash your hands frequently. Handshakes are
customary in West Africa and hand contact is how most common infections (such
as colds) are passed. The same applies for money which carries all manner of
germs.
If you are going out on the town in the evening, taxi drivers
are more than willing to rendezvous with you at an appointed time. If you
decide to stay past the hour, they will wait for you. And if all this sounds
intimidating, rest easy. It’s just common sense. Remember, West Africans
are well aware that tourist dollars are necessary to their economy. Chances are
the fellow standing next to you is watching out for you too. Africans are swift
to deal with thieves in their midst.
Just as there are certain areas
in your own city where you would not venture forth at certain times, the same
holds true for any city in the world. Enjoy your trip and rest assured that you
are really in friendly territory. It would be a shame to give up the rewards of
a rich African cultural experience based solely upon grossly exaggerated news
reports.
Canadian Bob Burch is an award-winning photographer and
journalist who has made over 30 trips to Africa. He has contributed to Audubon,
Conservation International, Fortune, Life and the National Geographic
Society.
