African Travel Articles
Twinkle,
twinkle little star
I wonder how the rhinos are?
There are probably
about one hundred thousand million stars in our own milky way galaxy. On the
darkest and clearest night in the Kruger we can probably see 2500 of them with
the naked eye.
The closest one to us, besides our sun, is Alpha Centauri
(or Proxima Centauri depending on how technical you are).Alpha Centauri is
about 4.3 light years away from us, that's very far away! At 1 079 252.42
kilometres per hour, light from Alpha Centauri takes four and a quater years
before we can see it - as a star in our sky on a dark, clear night.
That's 1 079 252.42 X 8 760 hours in a year X 4.3 years away. Even the
closest star to me when I look up at the African sky makes me wonder
and
then a lion roars, or I suddenly hear the distant whoop of a hyena scout, or
even the small, methodical clink of a fruit bat and those sounds bring me back
down to earth to nearer, more definable messages from life around me.
Then back into to the conversation around the campfire - what do we do
about all the starving children in the world? How can we keep the Kruger safe?
Once again we are engulfed in a never ending search for knowledge - for
thousands of years astrologers and astronomers studied the stars - debating
whether these stars had forcasting powers, or whether they were simply physical
heavenly bodies that could be defined. The astronomer-priests of ancient times
believed there was a bond between man and the universe. - I believe that the
stars above us have connected us, and directed our thoughts and spiritual
motivations. They have allowed us to be scientists and they have allowed us to
be mystical forecasters. But we still don't know for sure, we are still
overwhelmed by the stars.
So the starving children of the world, global
warming, and other highly emotive topics almost always come up as topics of
conversation while we look up into the stars and it seems that we are also not
getting any closer to answers. How many stars? How many more starving children?
How much more time? How much more space?
The conversation is always
facinating, if only Isaac Newton, Albert Einstein, Christian Doppler could sit
with us for clarity sake, or if Sigmond Freud, Charles Darwin or Kahlil Gibran
could interject. - No, what makes us tick is exploration, interpretation and
experience, so when the lion roars closer to the fire, we throw another log
onto it, perhaps shine a flashlight (we'll need speed) and become a little more
alert. Our very own interpretations of how we interact with our surroundings,
and in the Kruger - how our surroundings interact with us. These are lessons in
the bush, lessons that we no longer learn unless we are there.
So where
am I going with this? I'm not sure - I just thought I'd drop you a line and say
"Twinkle, twinkle little star
"
On my last safari two bull rhino's
- square-lipped or white rhino's - were doing battle. One in defense of his
territory, and one who needed a bit more space to ensure reproductive success.
The battle was severe, and as my guests and I watched the rhino's engage in
ritual sparring, threat and displacement moves - our own interpretations and
values and motivations became evident - there were those did not want to watch,
there were those who were OK until one of the animals began to suffer, and
there were those who were glued to the awesome power of the rhino's, and the
inevertiblity of the situation. At the end of the sighting - the dominant bull
rhino had a severly damaged hind leg, blood flowing from wounds to his flank
and face - but he had succefully defended a boundary. The younger bull ran away
- perhaps having done enough to come back later, or simply unaware that he had
won a physical contest?
You should have heard us after the drama! We
wanted closure, we wanted knowledge, we wanted to help the injured rhino, we
wanted to know if it would die, what would happen next, etc, etc..
So my
article is about the White Rhino in Southern Africa.
In the order
Perissodactyla - odd toed/hoofed animals (ungulates), we have the families of
Rhinocerotidae - rhinoceroses - black and white, and we have the family of
Equidae - zebras and relatives. I'm writing about rhino's, and the white rhino,
Ceratotherium simum specifically, the largest pure grazer of grass that lives
on the African continent. For me witnessing rhino bulls fighting leads directly
to understanding their social organisation because it is undoubtedly that which
has lead to the conflict. So lets call white rhino social systems sedentary,
semisocial, territorial and satellite bulls. They kind of work together, hang
about together in the same area but with conflict when territories are defended
by territorial bulls.
So if you can imagine a territorial bull that
spends a large part of his day demarcating a piece of real estate that he wants
dominant habitation rights on. This bull doesn't mind females or even other
males on his territory, as long as the other males behave submissively, and do
not make any advances towards females. Females in turn have what we call home
ranges - they overlap and are not defended - the territorial bull will
associated with 'rhino crashes' from time to time but more specifically when
there are females in oestrus present.
Agression between white rhinos is
normally mild except on the part of a territorial male - this male will
investigate the credentials of every other rhino on his territory, except
perhaps for very young guys, etc. The territorial bull will agressively
approach another rhino - stand horn to horn with him, and then slowly begin
moving the other rhino off the territory - the other rhino, satellite or not
will normally face the trouble and scream for mercy - slowly backing away until
theres a gap where he can run off, etc. This gets a little different when:
A) the sattellite or other bull rhino does not want to back off
submissively,
B) when two territorial bulls meet at the boundary of
their respective territories because of an approaching cow rhino in oestrus.
I suspect we witnessed one of these two events, and that's why the
physical contact was severe. It is not usual to see fights between rhinos
resulting in serious injuries. That's why I was so enthrawled by the sequence
of events, and that's why my interpretation of the interaction allowed for the
following analysis.
A territorial bull removing a satellite bull who
didn't act submissively Two territorial bulls at the boundary (perhaps a woman
involved - oblivious to her part in the sudden increase in testoterone levels)
No matter how we see what happened we can agree that it induced several
different reactions from us as a group, and our view of rhinos will now always
include that moment, those sounds and the knowledge that sometimes these
natural processes can be quite violent.
Written by Neil,
a professional safari guide in South Africa
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